Carnage

Well it was all systems go this morning as we saw solid ten foot plus swell and very light off-shores hit the west coast. The swell direction was just right for some of the big wave spots. There were some massive sets that rolled through, catching some unaware. Snapped boards and general carnage kept everyone alert. Several people copped wave after wave on the head and were helped out of the impact zone by other surfers. Definitely one for experienced surfers today as conditions were amazing, but also super solid and very powerful. As one dude commented to me, he'd never seen anything like it. Coming from the East coast he said they may occasionally get the same size, but never combined with the cleanness as well. He was in awe. It made me stop and think too, as really we're pretty spoiled for choice over here in the west. Lucky us.

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