It's been a wet and wild start to winter with very few surfable days, so expectations were high with a forecast that looked pretty good. Light off-shores until mid morning and solid six to eight foot swell sounded pretty tempting. But nature had other ideas - the swell was solid (more like eight to ten foot) and looked the goods but that northerly picked up early causing some serious bump in the face. And the swell direction wasn't quite right with a lot of spots that should have been firing pretty much looking messy and out of control. Let's hope things clean up a bit over the next few days.